They’re Not All The Same
“I hate annuities.” I hear that a lot. Usually from someone who was told to hate them by a stock-market-focused advisor or a TV personality. The truth? “Annuity” is just a bucket name. There are different types built for totally different jobs.
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Income annuities are designed to create a lifetime paycheck you can’t outlive — that’s literally the point, and why a lot of retirement plans now include annuity options alongside 401(k)s and IRAs.
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Accumulation annuities are built to protect and grow money, sometimes with guarantees against loss, sometimes with market-linked growth, sometimes with both.
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Fees, control, taxes, risk all change depending on which type you pick. Some have no market downside. Some absolutely can lose value. Some have ongoing fees of 2%+ a year, others have $0 internal fees.
First, let’s define the two big goals
When people say “annuity,” they’re usually talking about one of two broad missions:
Income Annuity (SPIA / DIA)
You give a lump sum to an insurance company. They give you a guaranteed income stream, often for life. You’re basically saying, “You take longevity risk. I want certainty.”
- Pro: You can’t outlive the check. That’s huge for people who worry about running out of money at 85, 90, 95+.
- Con: Depending on the payout option, you may be trading away access to that lump sum. In many cases you now “have income,” not “have an account.”
- Reality check: If you die very early and chose “life only,” payments can stop and there may be little or nothing left for your family.
Accumulation Annuity
Here you’re focused on: “Can I keep this money safe (or mostly safe), get some growth, maybe create future income later — and do it tax-deferred?”
- Pro: Potential to protect principal while still earning interest or index-linked growth.
- Con: There are rules. Most annuities have surrender periods and penalties if you pull out too much, too soon.
- Tax angle: Growth is tax-deferred until you take it out, just like a traditional IRA or 401(k), and eventually becomes part of Required Minimum Distributions (RMDs).
“I want safety and a paycheck”
Today, a lot of retirees do a blend: protect principal first, then turn that protected money into an income stream later when they actually need it. This is where modern riders, fixed index annuities, and smart withdrawal strategies come in.
- Translation: You don’t have to “hand over everything forever” on day one.
- Control: You can often keep an actual account value, not just a promise of checks.
- Spouse planning: Many designs can pay whichever spouse lives longer — not just one life.
Now let’s zoom in on the 3 main accumulation styles you’re going to hear about — MYGA, Fixed Index Annuity, and Variable Annuity — plus how guaranteed income riders work.
The 3 main accumulation annuity styles
I’m going to sort them by “guarantee strength,” from most predictable to most market-exposed.
MYGA (Multi-Year Guaranteed Annuity)
Think “tax-deferred CD with an insurance company.” You lock in a guaranteed interest rate for a set period (often 3–10 years). Your principal won’t go down due to markets, and you know your rate in advance.
- Guarantees: The insurer guarantees you won’t lose money and guarantees the interest rate for that term.
- Who likes this: Super conservative savers who want stability without stock market drama.
- Watch for: Surrender period. Pulling out too early can trigger a penalty.
Fixed Index Annuity (FIA)
With an FIA, your money is protected from market losses — if the linked index (like the S&P 500®) goes down, you don’t lose your principal or previously credited interest. If the index goes up, you get a slice of that upside (not all of it) based on the contract’s rules.
- Downside protection: Principal is safeguarded even if the stock market falls.
- Upside rules: Growth is limited by a Cap, a Spread, or a Participation Rate. Example: If the index gains 10% and your cap is 8%, you’re credited 8%. Or if the index gains 10% and you have a 2% spread, you net 8%. Or if you have 80% participation and the index gains 10%, you get 8%.
- Fees: Many FIAs have no annual fee unless you add an optional rider (like a guaranteed lifetime income rider).
Variable Annuity (VA)
A VA puts your money into investment subaccounts (basically mutual-fund style portfolios). Your account value can go up or down with the market. There’s no guarantee against loss of principal, unless you pay extra for riders.
- Upside: Full market participation. If markets rip higher, you participate.
- Downside: If markets drop, you can lose value. There is no built-in floor.
- Fees: It’s common to see total fees that land in the ~2% to ~3% per year range, including mortality & expense charges, admin fees, and fund management costs — plus extra rider costs if you add guarantees.
IMPORTANT: None of these are “good” or “bad” in a vacuum. They’re tools. The question is: which tool fits your job?
How does a Fixed Index Annuity (FIA) actually grow?
This part gets confusing, so let’s keep it plain. The insurance company is basically saying: “If the index goes up, we’ll give you some of that gain. If it goes down, you don’t go backwards.” You’re trading unlimited upside for downside protection.
Cap
A ceiling. If the cap is 8% for the year and the index returns 10%, you’re credited 8%. You don’t get the extra 2%, but you also didn’t take market downside risk.
Spread
A haircut. If the spread is 2% and the index returns 10%, you’re credited 8% (10% minus 2%). If the index only returned 1%, and the spread is 2%, you’d be credited 0% — but not negative.
Participation Rate
A percentage of the gain. If participation is 80% and the index returns 10%, you’re credited 8%. Some newer FIAs even advertise higher participation (sometimes 100%+ in certain custom indexes), but you still need to read the fine print.
Whatever you earn in a crediting period gets “locked in” — meaning once it’s credited, the insurance company can’t take that credited interest away in the next bad year. Your floor is 0%, not –20%.
“I need income I can count on… but I don’t want to give up control.”
Old-school answer: buy an immediate income annuity (SPIA), hand over the lump sum, collect a paycheck for life, and understand that when you pass, the payments may stop and there might not be money left for the kids.
Modern answer: many FIAs (and some VAs) let you bolt on a Guaranteed Lifetime Income Rider. That rider grows a separate “income benefit base” on paper. Later, you can flip that base into a lifetime payout for you, or for you and your spouse — whoever lives longer.
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Why people like it: You still keep an actual account value. If you pass away, there may still be money left to beneficiaries.
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Why people don't: Riders usually cost ~1% a year (give or take) and that fee still comes out even in down years.
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Alternate move: Skip the paid rider. Use a strong FIA with no annual fee and just take systematic withdrawals (within the contract’s free-withdrawal amount) to mimic income. That can leave more money in the account over 10–20 years vs. paying fees for the rider, depending on rates and caps.
Example scenario (illustrative only): Client puts $100,000 into a high-performing FIA. Option 1: add an income rider, pay about 1%/yr for that guarantee, and receive a set payout for life. Option 2: no rider fee — just take roughly the same annual withdrawal inside the allowed penalty-free amount. In many cases, especially in today’s higher-rate environment for FIAs and MYGAs, skipping the rider fee can mean more cash value left for heirs 10–20 years later. Actual math depends on current caps/participation rates, ages, and contract terms. (We run those numbers for every couple.)
The point is not “buy a rider” or “don’t buy a rider.” The point is: let’s test which path gives you the paycheck you want and still protects your spouse and heirs.
Don’t forget taxes and RMDs
Tax-Deferred Doesn’t Mean Tax-Free
Most annuities (unless they’re inside a Roth) grow tax-deferred. You don’t pay tax on gains every year. You pay when you take withdrawals.
Translation: deferral can be great if you’re in a high bracket now and expect lower income later. But it can also mean a chunky tax bill later if we’re not planning your withdrawals.
RMD Age Has Moved
The SECURE Act and SECURE 2.0 changed when retirees must start Required Minimum Distributions (RMDs) from most tax-deferred accounts (like IRAs and certain annuities). The required age increased to 73 starting in 2023, and it’s scheduled to increase again to 75 in 2033.
Practically: if you turn 73 in 2025, your first RMD generally must come out by April 1 of 2026, then you’ll owe another one by December 31 of 2026 — which can create two taxable withdrawals in one calendar year. We plan around that so you’re not surprised.
Before you buy any annuity, ask these 5 questions
1. What problem is this solving for me?
Lifetime income? Principal protection? Market growth with a safety net? If we can’t answer this in one sentence, the product is probably not a fit.
2. How liquid is my money?
Every annuity has rules on how much you can take out each year without penalty (often 5–10%). You need to know the surrender schedule.
3. What are the actual fees?
Some annuities have 0% internal fees (ex: many MYGAs, basic FIAs). Others, especially variable annuities with riders, can stack fees that total 2–3%+ per year.
4. Who backs the guarantees?
These are insurance guarantees. They’re backed by the financial strength and claims-paying ability of the issuing insurance company — not the FDIC, not a bank.
5. How does this affect my spouse / heirs?
With a life-only SPIA, income can stop when you’re gone. With a modern FIA + income strategy, you may still have account value for a beneficiary. We model both paths before you sign anything.
Let’s build the version that fits you
There is no “best annuity.” There’s only “best for what you’re trying to solve.” We’ll walk through income needs, spouse protection, tax timing, and what level of market risk actually lets you sleep.
This material is educational only. It is not individualized tax, legal, or investment advice. Guarantees (including any lifetime income guarantees) are backed solely by the financial strength and claims-paying ability of the issuing insurance company and are not insured by the FDIC, NCUA, or any bank. Annuity withdrawals before age 59½ may be subject to IRS penalties. Required Minimum Distribution (RMD) rules apply to most tax-deferred accounts once you reach the applicable RMD age under current law.
